On February 11, 2025, Thom Browne closed New York Fashion Week with a mesmerizing Fall/Winter 2025 collection that transported attendees into a whimsical avian-inspired world. The venue, a dimly lit Manhattan theater, was transformed into an ethereal aviary adorned with 2,000 white origami birds suspended in mid-flight, setting the stage for a narrative that intertwined themes of freedom, imagination, and self-expression.
A Story in Motion: The Ornithologists' Observations
The show commenced with two models portraying ornithologists, clad in double-faced wool parkas—a modern twist on Browne's signature uniform. They took their places at a pristine white desk, symbolizing a contemplative space to observe the unfolding spectacle. This introduction seamlessly led to the emergence of models showcasing 64 distinct looks, each meticulously crafted to reflect the collection's central motif: birds as emblems of liberation and individuality.
Reimagining Tailoring: A Nod to Heritage and Innovation
Browne's renowned tailoring was evident throughout the collection, with British-made tweeds serving as the foundation for many pieces. Jackets and coats featured adjusted proportions, offering a fresh perspective on classic silhouettes. Elongated jackets peeked through structured topcoats, while signature suiting broadened, and argyle cardigans were playfully shrunken. Skirts and shorts varied in length from mini to floor-grazing, with each garment boasting a unique hemline, ensuring no two pieces were alike.
Looks from Thom Browne's F/W 2025 Runway Show, courtesy of Gregoire Avenel/Thom Browne.
Embroidered Dreams: Birds in Flight
The collection's visual narrative was enriched by intricate bird motifs, inspired by the collaborative drawing exercise "exquisite corpse." These imagined avian creatures were rendered in satin stitch and gold bullion embroidery, adorning herringbone, glen plaid, houndstooth, and windowpane checks. Silk intarsia brought to life surrealist herons with elongated legs and magpies playfully stealing emerald green Swarovski crystals, adding depth and movement to the ensembles.
Looks from Thom Browne's F/W 2025 Runway Show, courtesy of Gregoire Avenel/Thom Browne.
Craftsmanship in Detail: Trompe L'oeil and Collegiate Touches
A standout piece was a trompe l'oeil dress, skillfully assembled from 3,500 black, silver, and clear Swarovski crystals, evoking the classic Thom Browne uniform with a striking level of detail. The collection also paid homage to collegiate aesthetics, featuring a tweed football pinnie and a chocolate brown suede varsity jacket emblazoned with the number "65," referencing Browne's birth year.
Swarovski Trompe L’oeil Dress, Longwing Spectator Knee Boot In Med. Grey & White Suede, courtesy of Gregoire Avenel/Thom Browne.
Accessories: The Finishing Flourish
Accessories played a pivotal role in complementing the ensembles. Beloved pieces like the Hector bag, inspired by Browne's own canine companion, made appearances alongside pumps, tuxedo slippers, and longwings, all realized in brogued suede with a two-tone spectator color scheme. Some footwear was veiled by argyle stockings, while others were punctuated by silk pom-poms and Swarovski crystals, adding a playful yet sophisticated touch.
Accessories backstage, courtesy of Sonny Vandevelde/Thom Browne.
A Star-Studded Audience and a Poignant Finale
The audience was a constellation of notable figures, including Oscar nominee Adrien Brody, Vogue editor Anna Wintour, and musicians St. Vincent and Cara Delevingne, all gathered to witness Browne's imaginative vision. In a heartfelt conclusion to the evening, Browne honored his Valentine's Day tradition by presenting a bouquet of white flowers to his partner, Andrew Bolton, curator at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, symbolizing their enduring partnership and the designer's personal touch.
Adrien Brody, Anna Wintour, Andrew Bolton Front Row at Thom Browne FW 2025, courtesy of Thom Browne.
A Visionary in Flight
Thom Browne's Fall/Winter 2025 collection masterfully blended conceptual artistry with wearable fashion, inviting audiences to embrace their individuality and dream without constraints. Through his unparalleled craftsmanship and storytelling, Browne once again affirmed his position as a visionary in the fashion world.
For a closer look at the collection, you can watch the full runway show below: