On June 24, 2024, the prestigious Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris was transformed into an extraordinary runway as Thom Browne unveiled his Women's and Men's Couture 2024 Collection. This season, ahead of the 2024 Summer Olympics, Browne masterfully blended the meticulous craftsmanship of couture with the dynamic spirit of athleticism, creating his very own opening ceremony in a collection that celebrates both artistry and physical prowess.
Models backstage at Thom Browne Couture 2024, courtesy of Thom Browne.
The Concept: The Toile as the Final Garment
Thom Browne's 2024 couture collection was a bold celebration of the design process. Traditionally, toiles—prototypes made from muslin—serve as preliminary versions of garments. Browne reimagined these toiles as the final pieces, bringing the intricate, unfinished elements of fashion construction to the forefront. The collection embraced the raw beauty of muslin, showcasing its versatility through varying weights and textures.
Models backstage at Thom Browne Couture 2024, courtesy of Thom Browne.
The show notes poetically stated, "The toile as the source text… the toile as the final garment… the work-in-progress becomes the final work." This emphasizes the beauty and integrity of the design process.
Thom Browne Couture 2024: An Olympic Spectacle
The runway show was nothing short of theatrical. Guests were greeted by a greige muslin-dressed salon, its columns echoing the venue's Belle Époque architecture. The event began with a dramatic tug-of-war competition featuring sixteen athletes dressed in tailored summer-weight cotton. This display of strength and athleticism set the stage for the collection, embodying themes of competition and physicality.
Bronze, Silver, and Gold medal-inspired outfits, from Thom Browne Couture 2024, courtesy of Thom Browne.
The Collection: Couture Meets Athleticism
Browne's collection paid homage to Olympic sports, deconstructing and reimagining classic athletic uniforms. The garments featured strong silhouettes with structured shoulders and empire waists, revealing the intricate layers typically hidden within couture pieces. One of my favorite details about this collection are the shoes, which remind me of boxing boots with spikes on the bottom, resembling cleats or running spikes. Raw edges, hand-basting, and visible stitching celebrated the garment's creation process.
Our favorite looks included:
Look 2: This look features an oversized down-filled tailored overcoat with external deconstructed tailoring details and a custom constellation toile of Olympic athletes embroidered with lace overlay, tipped with tufted tonal tulle, muslin, and clear bugle beads. It is paired with a deconstructed tailored dress in mixed muslins and horsehair, and completed with 100mm ankle boot heritage trainers with heel-less running spikes in muslin, exemplifying Thom Browne's signature blend of intricate craftsmanship and innovative design.
Look 2 from Thom Browne Couture 2024, courtesy of Thom Browne.
Look 5: An oversized V-neck cardigan hand-knit with lace cable in muslin wire yarn, paired with a sheer muslin tweed sport coat and mini pleated skirt, both hand-painted with red, white, and blue (RWB) cricketing motifs. Accessories include a Hector Limousine clutch in muslin with a hand-painted RWB collar and 100mm knee-high boot heritage trainers with heel-less running spikes in muslin, highlighting Thom Browne's innovative blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern athletic elements.
Look 5 from Thom Browne Couture 2024, courtesy of Thom Browne.
Look 15: A double-breasted oversized Chesterfield coat in muslin poof tweed with frayed edges and gold bullion embroidery, paired with a sleeveless hobble dress in sheer muslin tweed, hand-painted with a red bikini motif. Accessories include a Mrs. Thom Mini bag with a woven RWB grosgrain chain and 100mm ankle boot heritage trainers with heel-less running spikes in muslin, showcasing Thom Browne's signature blend of traditional tailoring and modern innovation.
Look 15 from Thom Browne Couture 2024, courtesy of Thom Browne.
Look 42: This look features an elongated trench coat in dark horsehair tweed, hand-painted with frayed edge finishing, paired with a classic sport coat and backstrap short in light horsehair tweed, both hand-painted with frayed edge finishing. The ensemble is completed with flat ankle boot heritage trainers featuring heel-less running spikes in muslin.
Look 42 from Thom Browne Couture 2024, courtesy of Thom Browne.
The collection also featured embroidered Grecian figures in sequins and bugle beads, representing athletes such as archers, javelin throwers, discus throwers, wrestlers, and weightlifters, capturing the vigor and grace of athletic movement.
The Finale: A Bridal Triumph
The show culminated with the arrival of the bride, symbolizing victory. She wore a mermaid dress embroidered with mother-of-pearl artwork and beads, embodying the collection's theme of process and transformation. The dress featured a bouquet wrapping, with flowers handcrafted from muslin, horsehair canvas, and crocheted yarns, celebrating the artisanal craftsmanship integral to couture.
From Thom Browne Couture 2024, courtesy of Thom Browne.
"Couture is the Olympics of Fashion"
This phrase encapsulates the essence of Thom Browne's collection. Just as the Olympics are a testament to the pinnacle of athletic achievement, couture fashion represents the zenith of sartorial craftsmanship. Both require immense dedication to excellence, precision, and an unyielding pursuit of perfection. The collection's athletic motifs and meticulous construction mirrored the rigor and discipline of Olympic athletes, highlighting the synergy between sport and fashion.
Conclusion
With his 2024 Couture Collection, Thom Browne once again demonstrated his mastery in blending high fashion with conceptual artistry, delivering a show that was as intellectually stimulating as it was visually stunning.