Much to our dismay (and possibly elation, for the editors and attendees who just want a good night’s sleep) fashion month is coming to an end. Quiet luxury has been a term thrown around quite a bit over the last few months, and Milan proved that it is here to stay. Designers sent models down the runway clad in elevated tailoring, coat hemlines grazing the ground and blazers cinching the waist. Colors were rich - chocolate brown, wine red, and a deep olive green in buttery, sumptuous leathers and rich wools and furs. Gone (for the most part) were the itty bitty, teeny tiny hemlines and no-pants pants in favor of mid calf and floor length hemlines. Not all trends from previous seasons are gone though. Sheer dresses are here to stay. And 2015 is back, but with a twist - over-the-knee boots are having a revival, but before you panic, say goodbye to the skin-tight suede version. These are chunkier, made of structured leather finished off with lug soles.
1. All About The Waist
From left to right: Max Mara, Dolce & Gabbana, K Krizia, Ermanno Scervino, Sportmax, Versace, courtesy of Vogue Runway
This is one of my personal favorite styling trends from the Milan Fashion Week runways. Waists were cinched in with super skinny belts. Max Mara and Sportmax layered their belts over ribbed and sheer waist panels, while Dolce & Gabbana opted for a cumberbund. K Krizia and Versace opted for tailored leather, and Ermanno Scervino extended their trousers to include a corset-like waistband.
2. Glove-Struck
From left to right: Brioni, Anteprima (via Tagwalk), N21, Blumarine, Ferrari, MSGM, courtesy of Vogue Runway
Add a good pair of leather gloves to your FW24 shopping list. We typically buy these in black so they can match our everyday looks, but designers opted for contrast colors. Think dishwashing but chic. If yellow gloves aren’t your cup of tea, try a wine red or patent leather to elevate an otherwise boring accessory.
3. And a Long Jacket
From left to right: Del Mar, Max Mara, Fendi, GCDS, Ferrari, Dolce & Gabbana, courtesy of Vogue Runway
As Cake famously once said, “I want a girl in a short skirt and a long jacket.” The short skirt might not be as accurate this season, but the jackets were floor length. Silhouettes ranged from Fendi’s cinched waist, slightly shorter version to GCDS and Dolce & Gabbana’s more oversized menswear inspired overcoats.
4. All Wrapped Up
From left to right: Bottega Veneta, MSGM, Fendi, Del Core, Alberta Ferretti, TOD'S, courtesy of Vogue Runway
Neck details were all over the runways this season. But not the necklaces, ties, or bows you might be thinking. Designers went in a different direction. Small accessories are out, statement pieces are in. Huge scarves in matching shades were draped over wool coats. Tailored shirts had built in drapery to toss over the shoulder. And models were swathed in knitwear styled off the shoulder, à la Fendi.
5. In A Cinch
From left to right: Gucci, MSGM, Del Core, Fendi, Ermanno Scervino, Jil Sander, MM6 Maison Margiela, courtesy of Vogue Runway
While the oversized menswear blazer is going nowhere, many designers also showed waist-cinching tailoring. MSGM and Ermanno Scervino were on the same page, with nearly identical marled wool double breasted blazers hitting just below the hips. Gucci and Fendi opted for simple black, but with less-standard collars - Gucci went with a fully buttoned up version while Fendi showed an overlapping mandarin style. And Jil Sander stayed true to her roots, keeping the lines clean and adding minimal embellishments, instead letting the silhouette do the talking.
6. The Deep V
From left to right: Sportmax, Ermanno Scervino, Marni, Gucci, Vivetta, Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini, courtesy of Vogue Runway
On the other end of the huge scarf spectrum, some designers opted to show much, much more skin. Sportmax showed a very Celine Spring 2011-esque black sheath dress. Gucci went for a little more glitz and glam, and Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini made workwear a little bit sexier. And Marni’s version, while not the most practical, felt like a masterclass in beautiful, minimal architectural design.
7. The Revival of Over-The-Knee
From left to right: Gucci, Versace, Del Core, Ferragamo, Fendi, Bally, courtesy of Vogue Runway
My younger self is quaking in her boots. Over the knee boots are back and better than ever. We no longer have to spend 20 minutes and recruit our friends to help us lace up the suede, sky high versions of years past. The 2024 version is much more utilitarian, and hopefully much easier to put on. A natural progression of the lug sole knee-high boots most of us have been wearing this winter, these boots are wider at the ankle and straighter up the leg.
8. Suit Up
From left to right: Genny, Alberta Ferretti, Sunni, Etro, Emporio Armani, Ferrari, TOD'S, courtesy of Vogue Runway
Gray is having a revival. After the minimal black and white phase we all went through, things swung in the opposite direction towards warm caramels and camels. But, gray is back and many, many suits in many, many shades came down the runways in Milan. Sunnei showed a massive oversized button down and matching trousers, while Ferrari embraced the cinched-waist blazer. TOD’S forewent the blazer and instead layered button downs - my second favorite styling trick from this season. Both were pinstriped white and gray, and kept the menswear inspiration without feeling like a full-on business suit.
9. Sheer Perfection
From left to right: Gucci, N 21, Blumarine, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Ferragamo, Vivetta, courtesy of Vogue Runway
Sheer is going nowhere. Some designers kept things minimal, with monochromatic lightweight chiffon shift dresses, while others embraced laces and ruffles. Dolce & Gabbana’s many dresses were reminiscent of early 1900s negligee, adding lace panels and a focus on the waist. Blumarine was more bohemian, with tiers of white lace. And N 21 and Ferragamo embraced architectural shapes - square panels to cover up those parts, and beautiful draped silk panels, respectively.
10. Chocolate Brown
From left to right: Bottega Veneta, Ermanno Scervino, Prada, Marco Rambaldi, Alberta Ferretti, Fendi, courtesy of Vogue Runway
Silhouettes in this color ran the gamut, but designers embraced warm chocolate browns in any and all textiles. Marco Rambaldi kept it classic with a luxurious suit. Alberta Ferretti adopted the scarf & jacket combo in rich fur, and Bottega and Fendi both showed dresses with asymmetrical details. Don’t want to go for the full brown look? Take notes from Prada’s styling. Black and brown was once a fashion faux pas, but is now one of my favorite color combinations. And you can easily break up the dark colors with a bright pop of blue or pink.
Looking for more notes on fashion? Check out Kendall's Substack here.
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