I know, as well as the next fashion girl, that big brands like Gucci, Miu Miu, and Prada are considered the holy grail of style, the crème de la crème, the best of the best. While their runway pieces more often than not cost a pretty penny, they do offer pieces, typically accessories, as entry-level, accessible ways for their customers to buy into the brand and the image said brand portrays. And then there are the Revolves of the world - approachable, easy-to-wear pieces for when you need something in a pinch.
But in this day and age, with the entire digital world just at our fingertips, why stop your browsing with that one viral top you saw on TikTok? Every season, incredibly talented designers are launching their lines and labels. Because most huge publications happen to be funded by huge design conglomerates, we often miss out on designers who fly under the radar.
In an effort to both revamp your wishlists and bring attention to the smaller designers who deserve it, I've put together a list of some of my current favorite emerging designers so you can say, "I knew them before they were cool." And don't think I'm stopping at just these ten - tune in every week to see the coolest brands you've never heard of.
Photo courtesy of the designer.
This Australian ballet dancer-turned-designer launched her label in 2023 at Australia Fashion Week. You've probably seen her pieces without even realizing it - she's dressed the biggest names in the industry, from Kendall Jenner to Doja Cat. Her work subverts the typical image one conjures up when the word 'balletcore' is mentioned, making more sense on Mila Kunis's character in Black Swan than on a prima ballerina dressed in pale pink tulle and flowy fabrics.
She challenges our preconceived notions of ballet, instead embracing the female form itself and focusing more on the concepts of pleasure versus pain rather than the literal representation of the art form. Bodysuits are deconstructed and adorned in crystals and chains. Chiffons and laces are distressed and molded to the body. Her work is not meant to be commercial - she aims to evoke a feeling that can only be achieved through her hands-on approach and immaculate attention to detail.
Photo courtesy of the designer.
Alessandro Vigilante is another label you've probably seen. His latest collections feel a bit like Jacquemus meets Charlotte Knowles. This designer doesn't shy away from colors. He is all about embracing the female form, whether that be through skin-tight, brightly colored jumpsuits or full latex looks. He even called his FW 24 collection 'Embracing Body.' He is a master of elevating simple silhouettes while remaining effortless; Blazers have perfectly tailored cutouts, coveralls somehow look sexy, and slivers of skin feel timeless rather than contrived.
3. Juana Martin
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Juana Martin launched her career in 1999 and has been a quiet force ever since. A lesser-known name in the world of haute couture, she draws inspiration from her Spanish and Andalusian roots. Her latest collection pays homage to Andalusian traditions, molding fabrics into flowers, and, as she told the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, "All of the items of typical flora of Andalucía are represented through traditional items of Spanish fashion traditions as ruffles or the importance of flowers in Holy Week."
4. Sho Konishi
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Born in rural Japan, Sho Konishi has attended Parsons, Paris College of Art, and Tokyo Mode Gakuen College of Fashion and Design. He finds inspiration through nature and its interaction with the human form. His work has been worn by the likes of Beyonce and Julia Fox, so keep an eye on this designer to see what he'll do next.
5. Frolov
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If you know anything about pop music, you know who Sabrina Carpenter is. And if you know who Sabrina Carpenter is, you probably know Frolov (maybe not intentionally, but you'll absolutely recognize the designer's work). If you're not a Sabrina Carpenter fan, don't worry; you can still appreciate the absolute artistry that Ivan Frolov has woven into the brand's DNA. Centered around feeling empowered by sexuality and the concept of love, this designer is always pushing the envelope while staying true to the ethos and aesthetics of the brand.
Photo courtesy of the designer.
Colleen Allen launched her line during the FW 24 season, marking her first foray into womenswear. Inspired by rituals and the use of color to channel feelings within the wearer, Colleen's small but masterfully crafted line definitely drew the attention of editors and the fashion-conscious crowd. The tailoring elevates witchy inspiration and makes it wearable for an older, less 'fairycore' inclined crowd.
7. Jcthelabel
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If you follow any fashion influencers, I bet you saw this asymmetrical mini-pleated skirt on your Instagram feed. This designer is proof: If you can dream it, you can do it. She started with sweat sets, moved to mini dresses, and then launched the collection that made her a staple on the Pinterest homepage in April 2023 - she sold out of the limited quantity almost immediately. She has since launched her next collection, and the pieces are just as distinguishable as before. If you love Sandy Liang but don't love the price tag, check out Jcthelabel instead. I promise you won't be disappointed.
Photo courtesy of the designer.
Every piece produced by this brand is handmade in Tbilisi, Georgia, and you can tell that the brand prides itself on its craftsmanship. This brand is for girls who are looking to add a bit of edge to pieces that might otherwise be considered "basic." Pierced leather mini skirts, belted and buckled blazers, and dresses literally named the 'Witch Dress' and the 'Virgin Dress' are listed side by side on the website. So, if you want to elevate your going-out wardrobe from Aritzia leather pants and a cropped tank, look no further.
9. Lii
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This brand is another newcomer onto the fashion scene - it launched during FW 24 and was spotted immediately by Greta Lee's stylist. A few weeks later, the actress wore one of their dresses at the Independent Spirit Awards. Probably one of the less practical brands on this list, Lii is all about oversized silhouettes, structure, and color. Despite the exaggerated shapes and lines, the pieces aren't overly designed, but instead feel wearable and breathable and drum up a sense of play for silhouettes like button-downs that have long been beaten into boring territory.
10. Meuret Tolgen
Photo courtesy of the designer.
Meuret Tolgen is designed and produced in New York and is every bit the balancing act between femininity and simplicity. From sheer dresses to lace-trimmed slips to satin trousers, each piece is expertly crafted and designed. There is an obvious antique inspiration, but instead of feeling old and dated, the pieces feel reinvigorated and fresh. They are the modern take on classic pieces, and they are done exceptionally well. My absolute favorite piece? This sheer dress, because you can't go wrong with a sheer black moment - especially when it comes with a slip.
And that marks ten designers for this week. If I may be so bold, exit out of that Zara browser tab and join me on this journey to find innovative and fresh pieces for your closet. We live in a time of innovation and excitement within the fashion landscape, so don't let the Zara and LVMH conglomerates of the world block you from finding lesser-known but oh-so-talented designers who pour their hearts and souls into each stitch.
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