Welcome back to part two of our emerging designers series. From the runway to Revolve’s most popular section, these designers deserve the spotlight. They focus on sustainability, craftsmanship, and embracing change within the industry. So, it’s time we pay attention to what they are saying and appreciate the craftsmanship with which they portray their messages.
1. Jane Wade
With two collections released, Jane Wade is already stocked by Bergdorfs and Assembly New York, two favorites of the fashion set. Her collections marry the concepts of workwear and office attire, focusing on silhouettes and trim details to add additional elements of interest that elevate and set the brand apart. The brand plays with expectation versus execution, using stereotypical workwear fabrics to create full-length gowns and adding unexpected utility elements to feminine silhouettes.
2. W 78 ST
Gabrielle La Mura launched W 78 ST with the goal of creating timeless silhouettes with top-tier craftsmanship. Despite being only a few years old, the bag brand has already released two collabs, one with the iconic 23carat, supplier of all things vintage and heirloom jewelry - each bag is a one-of-one version of their classic cloud silhouette adorned with vintage charms. The other collab is with Harper, another clothing brand based in New York. Small businesses supporting each other! Gabrielle does both classic silhouettes and quirky fun pieces, so there is something for everyone. And that shopping list I mentioned in the title? I’ve been hunting for a new work tote, and The Jolie in burgundy is currently at the top of my list.
3. Elena Velez
This Milwaukee-born and London-trained designer is proving that it is still possible to forge a new path in an industry saturated with artists and visionaries. It’s hard to categorize this designer’s work, and it feels cheap to even try to reduce her designs down to a singular concept. Inspired by her Puerto Rican heritage and her mother’s career as a ship’s captain on the Great Lakes, her collections aim to merge femininity and power. Models adorned in full cage crinolines have gloves that, upon further inspection, are hands caked in mud, and corsets, despite being perfectly constructed and fit, give the illusion of being torn and tattered, again challenging the female ideal. If you haven’t followed Elena yet, make sure you add her to your list of designers to watch.
4. Grace Ling
You may have heard of Grace recently - she’s designed custom looks for Katy Perry and Alex Consani. Julia Fox is a returning customer, and even JLo has worn a chrome breastplate by this designer. Using digital construction processes and 3D printing, this brand is able to deliver pieces with zero waste. The merging of fashion and technology is a driving force that makes this brand stand out.
5. Nicol & Ford
A rising star among Australian designers, this duo is at the forefront of the movement to challenge the status quo of the industry. Embracing queer culture, advocating for size inclusivity, and focusing on ethical production, this brand is everything we have been begging the industry for for years. And it is not performative - they truly believe in everything they are presenting. Jamaica Moana commented on their Instagram, “I can’t express how deeply y’all mean to us. The runway is never a performance, it is a lifetime dedication to each individual model ~ connecting your vision with our bodies & our cultures. Never trying to alter who we are, only to elevate the beauty you see in every person. All of this, with the consistent focus on community care.” To hear such powerful words about a brand shows just how passionate they are about their message and how deeply they have touched the lives of those they dress.
6. Ellie Misner
Ellie launched her Demi Couture line in 2022 from her flat in East London. Not typically the background for couture fashion, Ellie doesn’t let this phase her. Focusing on developing couture for all bodies, she likes to have fun with clothing. The too-low cut of the rear of the garment, exposing the upper derriere (to put it politely), is quickly becoming a staple within her work, along with expertly draped cowls and waistbands, aiming at making all women feel their best.
7. HAND OVER
This brand is quickly becoming a favorite of the Instagram and TikTok fashion crowd, and with the launch of their collaboration with Stradivarius, there is no sign they are slowing down any time soon. What started as a few styles of boxer shorts and boxer style pants, dubbed the “Ex-Boyfriend”, has quickly evolved into a distinct brand well known for its ability to make boxers hot. You may ask, “How are they doing this?” Think sequin boxers and silk satin button-downs, sheer lace pant and shirt sets, and teeny-tiny micro shorts. And as someone who, in fact, does own a pair, I am dying to add their lace set to my rotation. Pretty much all of their styles are on my summer shopping list.
8. Shie Lyu
As quoted on her website, Shie says, “‘I’d like to call myself an engineer or technophilia rather than a fashion designer.” In her work, she focuses on upcycling deadstock, damaged, and leftover materials without compromising on construction. Many of her pieces are handcrafted, with immaculate attention to detail and development of techniques that feel futuristic. Knitting, embroidery, and weaving are applied to textiles and manipulated in such a way as to develop brand-new textures and three-dimensional elements that feel like wearable art. And don’t just take my word for it - Anna Wintour herself paired Shie with Stella McCartney for Vogue’s Designer Swap initiative.
9. Bihan Lin
Bihan Lin’s line is sporty-meets-feminine-meets-tailored. She is tired of women being seen as one-dimensional, so she uses contrasting fabrics and reversible silhouettes to challenge this narrative. Each piece in the collection can be worn in multiple ways, challenging the ideas of rigid gender constructs. Each piece can be deconstructed and reconstructed, an allegory for personal identity in today’s world.
This London-based designer can do anything a wovens designer can do, but with knits. Whether using open spiderweb textiles, sheer stripes, or Muppet-esque coats, this designer shows that knits are not just for your grandma’s couch. It’s all about texture and color, and people are taking notice. His rapid rise to popularity can be attributed to the popularity of his striped designs, with the likes of Dua Lipa and Miley Cyrus wearing his pieces.
As we conclude this exploration of emerging designers and their trailblazing contributions to the fashion industry, it's evident that each one brings a unique vision and dedication. These designers aren't just shaping trends; they are setting the standards for the future of fashion. From ethereal designs that challenge our perceptions of femininity to statements that blend culture with couture, their creations are not just garments but manifestos for change. So, keep your eyes on these incredible talents. Their journey is just beginning, and the path they are paving is nothing short of revolutionary.
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